(mirrored page courtesy of Heckler)|
Pickle says: "This pages's info and pix are originally for skaters, but they are free, so, BMXers can modify as needed for their purposes... hey, it's free!"
Here they are, the Heckler Ramp Plans! Feel free to copy these and reproduce them and give them away to as many people as possible.Tired of skating the same old curb? Don't have a ride or five bucks for theskate park? No problem. Homemade, portable wooden ramps are relativelyinexpensive and easy to build. A boring driveway or an empty parking lot can bequickly transformed into a shreddable playground with just a few ramps.
3/8" X 4' X 8' sheets of plywood
electric, hand-held or bench saws
hammer & nails
string & chalk
3/8" PVC pipe
1. Decide on the type of ramp(s) you want to build, sketch out the design anddimensions on paper.
2. Acquire the tools listed below and as much wood as you can get your grubbylittle hands on
3. Find a work space to use (garage, backyard, etc.) and lay out your supplies.If you're planning to build a fairly large structure (permanent) try to buildit on site.
4. For ramps with curved transitions, you will need to use thestring-and-compass method shown below.
5. Once you've drawn and cut your templates, next comes the bracing. Shownbelow are two methods. Both are effective, but the cut-out version, while morework, is a stronger design.
6. Once you've done the framework, you'll most likely need to prep the toppiece(s) of the plywood (which must bend to fit the transition withoutbreaking). Do this by propping up the sheet(s)--already cut to size--at asloping angle and soak with a hose at low pressure for an hour or so. As thewood becomes soaked, apply an increasing amount of weight to the center of theboard(s)--using bricks or something similar--until the wood attains the desiredcurve. Now nail the wood onto the framework's 2-by-4s. If your ramp is to havecoping, make sure to leave enough space for it to fit snugly. Always go WITHthe grain of the wood while bending and apply the ply!
7. For a smoother transition, sand the bottom edge of the top sheet at an angleflush with the ground. Check for jagged splinters. Sand or paint if desired.Paint will make your ramp faster!
8. Duct tape, airplane or electrical tape or aluminum strips may be added tosmooth the transition's bottom edge.
9. Congratulate yourselves on a job well done (?) and start shredding!
String and Compass Method
1. Figure how much transition curve you want (in feet & inches) and howmuch vert, if any.
2. Tie one end of the string around the push-pin and stick it in the sheet as shown.
3. Holding the string taught, measure out exactly the amount of transition (seestep one) and mark this on the string with an ink pen.
4. Tie the drafting compass to the other end of the string and tighten it sothe slipknot is right on top of the mark you made.
5. Holding the string taut, swing the compass from the sheet's edge in aquarter-circle, marking the template with the chalk. You may need to move thecontraption around to get the desired curve and best use of space!
6. Place sheet on sawhorses and cut out templates carefully.
7. If you want to make a ramp with a decreasing transition, you need to modify the above steps and instead of using a push-pin, use a round object that is 6 inches to 3 feet in diameter, such as a paint can or a round garbage can. Attach the string to the round object and somehow secure it to the wood in place of the push-pin in step 2. As the string winds around the round object, it will get shorter and your transition will become tighter. This is called a decreasing radius transition and it is very cool when making launch ramps and quarter pipes. Experiment and eyeball in a cool tranny.
POWER SAWS ARE FUCKIN' DANGEROUS
Transitional Bracing Methods
Number One: Cut Out
1. You need 3 identical templates. Using a 2-by-4 as a model, trace cutmarks holding it flush with curve's edge.
2. Distribute brace/cut marks as evenly as possible.
3. With a jigsaw, cut out all marked spaces just outside of lines.
4. Nail in some bracing 2-by-4s to hold up structure.
5. Cut 2-by-4s to width of ramp.
6. Slide 2-by-4s into cut slats (they should fit snugly).
7. Connect platforms, top platforms, additional bracing or coping.
8. Apply to sheet(s) (see string and compass)--use nail punch to drive nailsflush.
Number Two: Side Nail
This method is quicker to build and much less work.
1. After cutting the templates, simply nail in 2-by-4s through the sides at thesame angle as the first method, using 3"-4" Flathead nails per side per stud(this woks much better if you have help to hold the 2-by-4s in place).
2. Follow steps 7 and 8 of method one.
Dr. Splinter's Helpful Hints
1. If this is your first ramp, keep it simple. A quarter-pipe or small launchramp makes a good first project. Then you can add on.
2. Be resourceful. If you don't have access to many tools, try to borrow some.If you can't afford wood, scrounge for some scrap wood.
3. Platform ramps and wood curbs are big again, and they're pretty easy tobuild. To ensure good design and durability, experiment on paper before youslap something together.
4. If you have nowhere to keep a ramp permanently, consider building a fewcompact, portable ramps to bring to your favorite weekend spots.
5. Make sure your design is adequately braced under the top sheet, so you don'tfall through the ramp (which I've seen happen).
6. For portable ramps, wheels or handles can be attached for easiertransport.
7. Two small curved ramps, built to fit flush with the wall, can be spacedapart for a gnarly channel-wall ride set-up!
8. For extra kick on quarter-pipes, "obtain" a slick parking block and place itatop the ramp, for big rock-and-rolls and lapover tricks.
9. Most of all, experiment, try new things and have fun with your ramp. Alwayswear pads when learning to ride a ramp and don't snake runs in front of yourfriends. Good Luck!
Here's some e-mail we got on ramp Building:From: email@example.com (john)
I HAVE SOME GOOD ADVICE FOR THOSE WISHING TO BUILD HALFPIPESTHAT ARE 4 TO 5 TIMES STRONGER THAN YOUR RIB METHOD.THE METHOD EMPLOYS THE RIB METHOD BUT EXPANDS THE METHOD TO TAKE ADVANTAGE OF EVERY LITTLE BIT OF POWER.CUT OUT NOTCHES WHERE THE RIBS GO. THIS WILL ALLOW THE RIB TO DISTRIBUTE THE PRESSURE THROUGHT THE STRUCTURE. IN ADDITION, USE VERTICAL BRACES ON THE BOTTOM 3 FT OF TRANSITION, THIS WILL EXTEND THE LIFE OF THOSE RIBS BY THREE FOLD. LASTLY, USE PACK DIRT UNDER THE FLAT BOTTOM AND THE FIRST 2 FT OF TRANSITIONS. THAT TRICK WILL DEAD SOUND AND ALSO MAKE THE RAMP 5 TIMES STRONGER. IF THE RAMP IS TO BE A LIFELONG STRUCTURE, THEN REPLACE THE DIRT WITH CEMENT.
Following are some links that will connect you to some blueprints for a street course fun box with rails, launch ramps and a half-pipe. They're pretty well done, but you'll still need to do a little design and planning for yourself.
Lo-res (7-10k) scans :
Text & illustrations by Drew Lawson